Most people see Kyoto through a camera screen at Fushimi Inari at 8am, surrounded by 400 other people with the same idea. The Kyoto worth traveling for requires different timing, a different map, and a willingness to wake up before the tour buses do.

Why November

Koyo — the Japanese term for autumn foliage — is the single best reason to visit Kyoto. The maples at Eikan-do turn crimson while the ginkgos at Tofuku-ji go gold, and the reflection pools fill with color. But the window is ruthlessly narrow: roughly ten days between mid-November and early December, and it closes without warning. Check kyoto.travel for the forecast — they track it obsessively. Miss it by a week and you're looking at bare branches.

"We walked into the forest at 6am before any tour bus arrived. The stone lanterns were still lit. The maples were unreasonably red. We were entirely alone."

Where to Stay: Aman Kyoto

Aman Kyoto sits at the northern edge of the city in a private forest, connected to the historic Kinkaku-ji grounds. It's not in town — there's no walking to dinner from here — but that's entirely the point. You are in the forest. The rooms feel like considered retreats: stone, wood, a deep soaking tub with garden views. Request a Garden Suite; the Forest Rooms face north and lose the afternoon light. The in-house restaurant is excellent for breakfast (the Japanese set is the move) and dinner, though you'll want to spend most evenings in Gion.

Rates run $1,500–$2,200/night depending on season. In November peak foliage week, expect sold out at any price if you haven't booked six months ahead. The concierge team at Aman is exceptional — they'll arrange private temple access before opening hours if you ask.

The Itinerary That Actually Works

Day 1–2: Arrive, settle, orientation. Take the Shinkansen from Tokyo — 2h15 on the Nozomi, no reason to fly. Check in, walk the Aman forest, have dinner at the hotel. First morning: Arashiyama bamboo grove at 6:30am, then Tenryu-ji garden. Back to the hotel before noon.

Day 3–4: Temple circuit. Eikan-do for the maple pond reflection (go by 8am). Nanzen-ji for the aqueduct framed in autumn color. Philosopher's Path connecting them — at 7am on a weekday it belongs to you and the cats. Save Tofuku-ji for your best foliage day; the viewing bridge over the maple valley is the reason people fly from London.

Day 5–6: Gion and the east. Kiyomizudera at dusk. Gion Hanamachi for the lantern-lit alleys in early evening — this is where you might see a geiko if you're quiet and lucky. Dinner at Kikunoi Roan (Michelin-starred kaiseki; reserve months ahead).

Day 7–8: Day trips. Nara is 45 minutes by express — the deer, Todai-ji, and the back streets of Nara-machi are worth a full day. Osaka is 30 minutes — Dotonbori is overhyped but Kuromon Market is excellent. Or stay in Kyoto and repeat your favorites without the crowds of earlier in the week.

Where to Eat

Junsei in Nanzen-ji serves the definitive tofu kaiseki — a multi-course meal built entirely around fresh Kyoto tofu in a 300-year-old garden setting. Book ahead; they're popular with locals, not just tourists. The yudofu (hot tofu pot) course is essential. Tagoto Honten near Gion is the place for sake education — they carry small-batch Kyoto producers you won't find outside the prefecture. The staff speak enough English to guide you through a tasting. Kyubey in Gion is the splurge sushi counter — omakase only, 12 courses, exceptional quality for the price compared to Tokyo equivalents.

Practical

Flights: Japan Airlines First Class on JFK–NRT is the play if budget allows — evening departure, arrive fresh. Otherwise ANA Business (good product), or save on flights and spend on the hotel. Getting Around: Kyoto is a bicycle city. Rent from the hotel or a local shop (¥1,000/day). Taxis exist but the one-way streets are maddening. The subway covers north-south; buses handle east-west but run crowded in foliage season. Book ahead: Aman (6 months), Kikunoi (3 months), Junsei (2 weeks), temple illumination events (night viewings sell out in October).